Managing the Mess: Food and Fortitude in Colonial India

Dr Erica Wald illustrates how food influenced the lives of the troops and shaped perceptions of the ideal soldier in the 19th-century Indian Army.
An Indian servant attends to the requirements of Bengal Army officers inside their tent, 1857

Dr Erica Wald illustrates how food influenced the lives of the troops and shaped perceptions of the ideal soldier in the 19th-century Indian Army.

Food has always been a critical aspect of military life. In 19th-century British India, however, it became a source of intense debate and concern. Officials were preoccupied with managing soldiers' diets, believing that what they ate significantly impacted not only their health, but also their discipline and, more broadly, the security of the Empire.

Medical reports and official correspondence from the time reveal a stark contrast in how European and Indian soldiers were perceived. European troops were often portrayed as reckless and naïve, suffering from illnesses due to their poor dietary choices. In contrast, the Indian sepoy was idealised as a disciplined family man whose simple and sensible diet not only ensured his better health but also signified a more reliable character.

In this talk, Erica Wald will explore how the management of the mess became integral to military life in India. She will discuss the regulations imposed and the challenges faced by both European and Indian soldiers, including the constant threats of hunger, poor rations and the rising cost of food.

About the speaker

Dr Erica Wald is a Senior Lecturer in Modern History at Goldsmiths, University of London. Her research focuses on the social, cultural and military history of colonial India. Her upcoming book, ‘Everyday Empire: Social Life, Spare Time and Rule in Colonial India’, explores the intersections of social life and colonial rule.